Essex Jewelry and Antiques
Antique Spanish Colonial Philippines 14k Gold Pearl Tamborin Relikaryo Necklace
Regular price
$2,431.00
Presented is a fabulous antique gold and pearl necklace. This piece is difficult to date, it could date to anywhere from the 1600s through the mid 1800s, but it is likely of Spanish colonial Philippine make. The necklace is made in a very intricate filigree openwork style known as tamborin, so named for the intricacy of the work, said to resemble embroidery thread spooled around “tambour” frames used in needlework; “tamborin” became near synonymous with this rosary-inspired style of necklace. The focal point of the necklace is an oval “relikaryo” pendant, set with a pearl in the center and decorated with more intricate tamborin decoration, leaves and clusters of grapes. The reverse of the pendant has a little open bezel, which would have contained a cross or other religious relic, a filigree flower, or perhaps an icon. The chain is exceptionally well made, consisting of openwork filigree beads, real natural seed pearls, and little gold spacer beads. The larger beads are particularly intricate in their making, requiring a degree of expertise and commitment of time that no one is devoting to jewelry today; the difference between more modern tamborin necklaces and this one is quite noticeable. Really a fantastic and highly desirable piece.
We have tested all parts of this necklace, and all the beads as well as the bow/ribbon design above the pendant are at least 14 karat gold purity. The oval pendant is silver gilt, with a heavy gold plating.
This necklace is in great overall condition. There is a spot of lead solder on the back of the pendant, at about the 2 o'clock position, and maybe a couple more dots around the rim, though these might just be discoloration. The beads and pearls are all present, but at least one of the gold beads looks like a custom made replacement, though this is incredibly hard to notice without close, careful inspection using a jeweler's loup. The beads and pearls are very tightly strung. Some very minor damages to some of the larger gold beads, but none are crushed or missing entirely.
The necklace is about 27-28 inches long, it is difficult to measure due to the design. The pendant portion is about 1 5/8 inches long including the ribbon design at the top. This necklace weighs 23.8 grams total, we estimate that about 19 grams of this weight is the gold necklace portion without the pendant. -jm
We have tested all parts of this necklace, and all the beads as well as the bow/ribbon design above the pendant are at least 14 karat gold purity. The oval pendant is silver gilt, with a heavy gold plating.
This necklace is in great overall condition. There is a spot of lead solder on the back of the pendant, at about the 2 o'clock position, and maybe a couple more dots around the rim, though these might just be discoloration. The beads and pearls are all present, but at least one of the gold beads looks like a custom made replacement, though this is incredibly hard to notice without close, careful inspection using a jeweler's loup. The beads and pearls are very tightly strung. Some very minor damages to some of the larger gold beads, but none are crushed or missing entirely.
The necklace is about 27-28 inches long, it is difficult to measure due to the design. The pendant portion is about 1 5/8 inches long including the ribbon design at the top. This necklace weighs 23.8 grams total, we estimate that about 19 grams of this weight is the gold necklace portion without the pendant. -jm